Category Archives: History

Food really is love, and also a marker of shared experience

When interviewed by the United States Holocaust Memorial Museum about his recollections of Sephardic life before World War II, Dr. Isaac Nehama described in detail the special characteristics of some of the special foods his mother used to make in their Athens home. Speaking for posterity, his choices were wise and wonderful, reflecting dishes unique to his parents’ native Monastir (Bitola), others universally Sephardic, some with their roots planted firmly in Spain and even earlier in Jewish history.

Even though he watched his mother prepare the same recipes countless times, he never ceased to marvel at the intriguing flavors, shapes and textures she produced each day for her family.  He reminds me of my grandfather, who adored his mother’s cooking and always spoke of it with the same sense of wonder as Dr. Nehama, as if the transformation from raw ingredients to final product was somehow miraculous rather than the work of a skilled and practiced cook.  Continue reading

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Guëvos Haminados / Huevos Jaminados (Glosario)

Hay un articulo nuevo hoy en el glosario castellano, sobre los “huevos jaminados”.  Se lo encuentra aquí.

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Filed under Escrito en castellano, Glossary, History, Holidays (fiestas judias)

About that rye bread… / Hablando de aquel pan de centeno…

(en castellano abajo)
To get a sense of how profoundly important Jewish rye bread is in New York culinary culture (and in Ashkenazi culture in general), I give you this clip from the Seinfeld episode I mentioned below.  Thanks to “unrayochacha1981” for putting it on YouTube, and with Spanish subtitles.   However – and this is a big however – he misses the point.  The subtitles indicate a “marble bread” as the object of Jerry’s desperation, but it’s a “marble rye“.  The rye is everything.  Of course.
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Para que se entienda cuanto profunda es la importancia del pan de centeno judío en la cultura culinaria de New York (y en la cultura ashkenazi en general), os doy este trozo del episodio de Seinfeld de que he hablado abajo.  Gracias a “unrayochacha1981” por ponerlo en YouTube, y además subtitulado en español.  Pero – y es un pero muy grande – ha perdido el sentido!  Los subtitulos indican que un “pan marmolizado” es el objecto de la desesperación de Jerry, pero es un pan de centeno marmolizado.  El centeno es todo.  Por supuesto.

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Filed under Escrito en castellano, History

An afterthought and a happy coincidence

In the post below about ‘Ashkenazi mina‘ I referred to the adaptability of Jewish cooking (which really means Jewish cooks), but in that particular case it would be more appropriate to describe the chopped liver mina as an example of culinary crossover.   Seven years living in the Med has taken a toll on my English vocabulary.

A funny thing about that post.  All the while writing it I couldn’t stop thinking about really well made chopped liver, which put me onto Jewish deli food in general, and my own personal favorites growing up:  garlic pickles (at age 10 I could eat a whole jarful); German cole slaw; roast turkey with cole slaw & Russian dressing on rye;  rare roast beef with lettuce & mayo (I know, I know) on rye.  Always the rye bread, and if you don’t understand the importance of a good rye bread, watch the Seinfeld episode about the Schnitzer’s rye. Continue reading

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