Hi, Janet,
Have you ever heard of rechikas?  My grandmother (and later, my mother) made these little dry cookies, not very sweet at all, crunchy and absolutely DELICIOUS, especially when dunked in some Turkish coffee!  OMG, I’m drooling.  Please say you know what I’m talking about.
Yael Eylat-Tanaka
Of course, Yael! Reshikas, or reshas, are exactly as you describe them. My first taste was a mesmerizing experience.  I was very, very young – four, at most – and my mother brought home a bagful after a visit to my great grandma.  My eyes popped, and I couldn’t stop eating them.  Great grandma was already in her nineties, but she still made one mean cookie.
Reshikas are merely biscochos – shortbread cookies -  that are twisted before shaping them into rings. Orange juice (not rind) blended into the dough is most likely the source of the subtle flavor you remember, and the crumbly texture comes from oil.  Growing up in New York our oil of choice was Mazola corn oil – in the 1960′s we weren’t exactly spoiled for choice – but your grandmother surely used a mild-flavored olive oil.   To jog your memory a little, here’s an old post with a photo.

 

Rhodes-style biscochos and reshas on traditional Jewish pottery from Teruel (Aragon). Photo © Janet Amateau.

Rhodes-style biscochos and reshas on traditional Jewish pottery from Teruel (Aragon). Photo © Janet Amateau.

BISCOCHO (“bis-CO-chu”)  - como el francés biscuit y el italiano biscotto – significa literalmente “cocido dos veces”. Un biscocho se trata de una masa de galleta firme, no demasiado dulce, que se hornea una vez y se vuelve a hornear para conseguir una textura crujiente. El aceite dota a la masa de elasticidad, haciendo más fácil trabajarla con formas diferentes, y su nombre cambia dependiendo de las variaciones en cuanto a formas y sabores. Las reshas de Rodas, por ejemplo, también llamadas reshikas, son pastas de biscochos retorcidas en espiral como los pretzels y cubiertas con semillas de sésamo. 

La receta básica de biscocho requiere zumo de naranja como sabor principal – reflejo de su origen español – y cambia a gusto de quien lo hace, pudiéndose usar canela, anís y/o un licor o brandy para añadir más sabores.

Los biscochos son algo básico en los hogares sefardíes. Ideales con café, con té o con un vaso de leche, son una delicia que siempre se tiene a mano para un tentempié o para visitas inesperadas.

En español moderno, bizcocho se refiere no sólo a este estilo de galletas, sino también a la masa básica para pasteles.

 

Rhodes-style biscochos and reshas on traditional Jewish pottery from Teruel (Aragon). Photo © Janet Amateau.

Rhodes-style biscochos and reshas on traditional Jewish pottery from Teruel (Aragon). Photo © Janet Amateau.

BISCOCHO (“bis-KŌ-ch ōō”)  – like the French biscuit and Italian biscotto- literally means “twice cooked.” A biscocho is a firm, not-too-sweet, shortbread cookie that is baked once and then re-baked for crisping.  Oil gives the dough great elasticity, making it easy to work into different shapes, and the name changes according to variations in shape and flavorings.  Rhodesli reshas, for example, also called reshikas, are biscocho dough that is twisted into a pretzel-like coil and topped with sesame seeds.

The basic biscocho recipe calls for orange juice as the flavoring – a reflection of tastes developed in Spain – and changes according to the whims of the baker, who might also use cinnamon, anise and/or a liqueur or brandy for additional flavoring.

Biscochos are a staple in Ottoman Sephardic homes.  Ideal with coffee, tea or a glass of milk, they’re the kind of treat you keep on hand for snacks or impromptu visits.

In modern Spanish culture, bizcocho refers to basic yellow cake made with shortening.

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