History / Historia


I just discovered, through DNA testing, that my ancestors lived in Girona. They left when the Alhambra Decree was issued. Do you have any recipes of Jewish specialties from Girona?  Thank you.  Ronit

Sure, Ronit! It may well be you know one or two already, as Catalonia’s medieval Jewish recipes were its first culinary exports.

If you’re familiar with spinach with pine nuts and raisins, you probably think of it as an Italian or Italian Jewish dish.  You’d be right. But there, too, in its endless regional variations (adding lemon and garlic in Rome, chive and anchovy in Genoa, sweet onion and vinegar in Venice, etc.), the basic recipe is attributed to the arrival of Sephardim at the time of the expulsion from Spain.

This classic dish is still eaten all over Catalonia, and you’ll be just as likely to find it made with chard (not a ‘Jewish vegetable’) as with spinach (a ‘Jewish vegetable’). Dressed simply with salt, pepper, raisins, pine nuts and olive oil, today’s typical traditional Catalan recipe is far tamer than European food was in the spice-crazy Middle Ages.  In that era spices were wildly expensive and people who could afford them made a big show of using them. Recipes were (more…)

Recently a reader questioned my theory about the origin of  ensaimada, a traditional pastry from Mallorca made with lard that I believe began life as challa, or perhaps as rosca  (see my post about the book ‘Dulce lo vivas’).  Okay, challenged more than questioned it.  She called my idea far fetched.  Hmm.  Well, I love a good challenge, and especially where Sephardic vs. Christian or secular Spanish gastronomic traditions are concerned it can be challenging to determine which is the chicken and which is the egg.  But there is a method to my madness, which I explained in my reply.   For others who may also wonder how I draw certain conclusions (and who don’t make a habit of reading blog comments), I’ve repeated the conversation here. (more…)

Years ago my brother-in-law, who is a tall, blue-eyed, blond-haired WASP from Ohio, told my sister, who is a tall, brown-eyed, olive-skinned Jew from New York, that when he first laid eyes on her he was struck by her exotic looks.  “Exotic!!?” she cried, “Where I come from, Meg Ryan is exotic.”   Exoticism, like beauty, is in the eye of the beholder and has everything to do with your frame of reference. (more…)

When interviewed by the United States Holocaust Memorial Museum about his recollections of Sephardic life before World War II, Dr. Isaac Nehama described in detail the special characteristics of some of the special foods his mother used to make in their Athens home. Speaking for posterity, his choices were wise and wonderful, reflecting dishes unique to his parents’ native Monastir (Bitola), others universally Sephardic, some with their roots planted firmly in Spain and even earlier in Jewish history.

Even though he watched his mother prepare the same recipes countless times, he never ceased to marvel at the intriguing flavors, shapes and textures she produced each day for her family.  He reminds me of my grandfather, who adored his mother’s cooking and always spoke of it with the same sense of wonder as Dr. Nehama, as if the transformation from raw ingredients to final product was somehow miraculous rather than the work of a skilled and practiced cook.  (more…)

Hay un articulo nuevo hoy en el glosario castellano, sobre los “huevos haminados”.  Se lo encuentra aquí.

Okay, so my favorite Hanukah story is, uh, my own.  It’s there in the archives for all to read, but to make life easier here’s a link for the English version, which includes a recipe for keftes de prasa (leek pancakes).

And if you like a little variety in your keftes, there’s a second recipe right here.

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Bueno, pues, mi cuenta favorita de la historia de Januca es, pues, la mia.  Hay una version en castellano (con una receta) en el archivo que se encuentra aqui’.

Y si te gustan patatas en tus keftes (una frase que me hace reir), hay una otra receta aqui’ (pero en ingles).

Happy Hanukah to all!      A todos, felices fiestas!

(en castellano abajo)
To get a sense of how profoundly important Jewish rye bread is in New York culinary culture (and in Ashkenazi culture in general), I give you this clip from the Seinfeld episode I mentioned below.  Thanks to “unrayochacha1981″ for putting it on YouTube, and with Spanish subtitles.   However – and this is a big however – he misses the point.  The subtitles indicate a “marble bread” as the object of Jerry’s desperation, but it’s a “marble rye“.  The rye is everything.  Of course.
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Para que se entienda cuanto profunda es la importancia del pan de centeno judío en la cultura culinaria de New York (y en la cultura ashkenazi en general), os doy este trozo del episodio de Seinfeld de que he hablado abajo.  Gracias a ”unrayochacha1981″ por ponerlo en YouTube, y además subtitulado en español.  Pero – y es un pero muy grande - ha perdido el sentido!  Los subtitulos indican que un “pan marmolizado” es el objecto de la desesperación de Jerry, pero es un pan de centeno marmolizado.  El centeno es todo.  Por supuesto.

In the post below about ‘Ashkenazi mina‘ I referred to the adaptability of Jewish cooking (which really means Jewish cooks), but in that particular case it would be more appropriate to describe the chopped liver mina as an example of culinary crossover.   Seven years living in the Med has taken a toll on my English vocabulary.

A funny thing about that post.  All the while writing it I couldn’t stop thinking about really well made chopped liver, which put me onto Jewish deli food in general, and my own personal favorites growing up:  garlic pickles (at age 10 I could eat a whole jarful); German cole slaw; roast turkey with cole slaw & Russian dressing on rye;  rare roast beef with lettuce & mayo (I know, I know) on rye.  Always the rye bread, and if you don’t understand the importance of a good rye bread, watch the Seinfeld episode about the Schnitzer’s rye. (more…)

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