Leeks and onions are among the oldest known foods on Earth; onions have been around for at least 7,000 years and leeks for at least 4,000 years, when they were already cultivated in ancient Egypt and Mesopotamia. Take a look at ancient Egyptian art: the leeks abound. Leeks were introduced in Iberia by the Jews, who doubtless took a seed or two with them in the Exodus, and today leeks remain a fundamental ingredient not only of Sephardic cuisine in general but of Spanish cuisine of the Mediterranean coast. When figuring out what to serve up to celebrate the new Festival of Lights, what, 2,000 years ago, it would have been a no-brainer. The ancient, Egypitian leek to symbolize yet another oppressor overcome? Maybe. More likely this: Have you tasted fried leeks? They’re delicious!
With its use of only eggs, leeks and matza meal, the very simple recipe i posted yesterday for keftes de prasa is about as old it gets, although I did use sunflower oil (a Spanish discovery native to Peru) instead of olive. If you use olive oil, you’ll have a very ancient recipe indeed.
This version is more elaborate in its ingredients and preparation. It is more “modern” in its use of potatoes, which came from the Americas and didn’t arrive in Europe until about 1530, also courtesy of the Spanish and right alongside the sunflowers. And instead of the usual parboiling, the leeks and potatoes are sautéed in oil, Spanish style, before being shaped into patties. It’s Hanukah. Fry away.
Keftes de Prasa (Leek Pancakes) – version 2, with potato
1 egg (or two, if necessary)
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2-3 large leeks, white part & tender green
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a few celery leaves, chopped
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1 large frying potato or two medium
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¼ c. matza meal
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extra virgin olive oil
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salt & fresh ground black pepper
Directions
Trim the leeks and cut them crosswise into 1/4-inch rings. Rinse well in cold water and drain. If the leeks are very sandy you’ll need 2 or 3 changes of water. Roll the cleaned leeks in a towel and gently squeeze it to remove the water.
Pour some olive oil into a small skillet – enough to loosely coat the bottom – and turn the heat to medium. Gently sauté the leeks until they are soft and translucent. Allow some of the leeks to gently brown and crisp. Remove all to a bowl with a slotted spoon, toss in the chopped celery leaves and a sprinkling of salt and mix with a wooden spoon. Drain on paper towels.
Prepare the potato. Peel & and slice it into 1/4″ thick rounds, then cut the slices into smallish dice – a half inch or so is good. Once you’ve set aside the leeks to rest, add more oil to the skillet, enough to cover the diced potatoes about halfway. Heat over a medium-high flame and add the potatoes. Stir to coat with oil and let them fry gently until they are fork tender, maybe about ten minutes, letting them brown a little if you like - don’t overdo the browning. Remove them with a slotted spoon, lay them to drain on paper towels and sprinkle with a little salt & black pepper.
Beat the egg. Add the cooked vegetables, potatoes and matza meal and stir gently with a wooden spoon just enough to distribute evenly. Let the mixture rest a few minutes. This will moisten the matza meal and allow the potato & matza meal to absorb the egg, giving you a mixture that’s dense enough to shape into small patties. It is the combination of egg and matza meal that binds everything together. If your mixture seems too liquid you can sprinkle in a little more matza meal, or pour off the excess egg. By the same token, if your mixture seems too dry, add the second egg. Form small, round patties with your hands (don’t be afraid to press the mixture), lay them on a plate and refrigerate for 30 minutes (the chilling will help the keftes hold together. So much depends upon the environment you’re working in; you may find you need to chill the mixture before forming the keftes.
Heat the oil (1/4″ deep) over a medium-high flame, reduce to medium and add keftes to the skillet without crowding. Cook gently on one side until firm, then flip to finish cooking on the other side. How much you brown your keftes is up to you – I prefer them pale and with at most a hint of browned crust. Drain the keftes on paper towels, let rest and serve warm or at room temperature.
Keftes de prasa are for snacking. You can eat them on their own or in a meze with some kalamata olives, roasted eggplant salad, crudités, Greek yogurt and maybe a little marinated fish. Gotta love that Mediterranean diet.
